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By Hank Campbell | May 1st 2009 11:25 PM | 4 comments | Print | E-mail | Track Comments
About Hank

A wise man once said Darwin had the greatest idea anyone ever had. Others may prefer Newton or Archimedes.

Probably no one ever said...

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If you like blue jeans, well, I think you're really a lazy dresser, but you are at least not alone historically.   Since the Middle Ages, blue has also been the color worn by nobility.

For kings, the dye was made from a plant that had to be imported from India (and used since around 2500 BC) - Indigo, cleverly called that because it is an extract of the Indigo plant.  But some dyes for lesser men were also made from a European plant since the 13th century, Dyers Woad (Isatis tinctoria L. Family: Brassicaceae (Cruciferae)), which grows as a winter annual, biennial or short-lived perennial.    The process is also different; Indian indigo color was made from Indigo flowers in a somewhat elaborate process (see next paragraph) while Dyers Woad color blue comes from Indigotine, produced by fermenting its leaves.

Indigo, which you know if you are something of a color expert, is a deeper blue so it had more cachet if you had the cabbage to import it from India; and you could stand the thought of wearing clothes that had been colored using a mixture of plants, water, potash and ... urine.   That's right, urine. 

Naturally, the race would be on to make it synthetically rather than have peasants peeing in vats of dye - and so it was, though I don't know that there have been any books written about it.   It sounds like one of those fascinating applied research efforts that would make a good movie.   In 1897 BASF won the race and hit the market with a synthetically produced version of Indigo.

Listen here if you want an eerily game show-ish rendition of blue dyeing by Jeff, the Chemical Reporter, at BASF.

So 'royal blue' became popular even with we peasants, though we no longer get to say we pissed on the royal family.

It isn't over yet.   To get your blue jeans to actually be blue you need both reduction from peeing and oxidation, namely letting it dry out.   Rather than urine and potash(potassium carbonate - yes, Canada leads the world in production of something, namely this) people use various forms of salt and various forms of soda (there has also been research on using organic salt - sodium edate - rather than inorganic salts in nastier forms of dyeing) but what salt you use is part of the magic - and argument, if you take your dye that seriously.    It's also a trade secret for commercial manufacturers - like the Colonel's secret recipe, Levi's does not disclose how they dye their jeans (we know there is sulfur, though).

If you're an aging hipster and do your own tie-dyeing, you won't need salt at all, but otherwise a non-iodized pickling salt will do just fine.  

It won't look blue, it will look yellow (that's not the urine, though) but after the oxidation it will become blue just fine.   And your butt will magically look like this.

what makes blue jeans blue



Comments

logicman
if you had the cabbage to import it from India

Very clever pun!
cabbage: slang, money.
Brassicaceae or mustard family, members include:
cabbage, cauliflower, swedes, and turnips.

There is something very British about woad.  After all, if it was good enough for Boadicea ...

I suppose that only a land steeped in a tradition of boiling vegetables and rubbing them all over the body could have so readily adopted the idea of setting dried leaves on fire and sticking them in the mouth.

rholley
The pee wasn't the worst part of the Indian peasants' lot, by a long chalk. After all, in Merrie England the fullers who treated raw wool to degrease it were paid handsomely (three times the average, I understand.) The indigo plantations were the equivalent of the cotton fields of Dixie and the sugar cane plantations of the Caribbean, and as the ever-informative Wikipedia tells us:
In
literature, the play Nildarpan by Dinabandhu Mitra is based on the indigo slavery and forceful cultivation of indigo in India. It played an essential part in the Bengali indigo revolt of 1858 called Nilbidraha.


But their troubles didn't end there. At the end of the nineteenth century, BASF started producing synthetic indigo, and I have read the a very large number of Indian indigo workers were left destitute.

(reference: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dinabandhu_Mitra#Nildarpan)


Hank
Mr. Patrick,  I am glad someone reads these things with the keen eye I possess in writing them, though I didn't know about the Swedes.   I suppose the next time I call one of them a turnip-head I will feel vindicated.

Mr. Robert,  too much is made about the relative earthquake in the US over slavery and an example is Britain, which outlawed slavery 20 years earlier without any violence.    Britain didn't need violence because it had few slaves, instead having the virtual slaves of Manchester, Ireland and India.

That's not to say I don't think Brits had the best interests of the third world at heart.   In reading the histories of the time they truly seemed to believe that western civilization was their Christian duty; they regarded themselves as benevolent despots - and the results bear them out.   On the occasions I find an Indian who complains about the British ever being there, I note that compared to their neighbors, Indians do spectacularly in their multicultural diplomacy and their intellectual creativity and there's no reason to think they would be so much better than the others without Britain.

Or, as famous American boxer Muhammad Ali said after returning from Zaire and fighting George Foreman and being asked what he thought about Africa, 'Thank God my granddaddy got on that boat'.

rholley
Gesundheit!  I think I'll try my next act in front of Simon Cowell!

Seriously though, I wasn't intending to get political; nor am I Tullius Detritus, an EU agent seeking to sow La Zizanie between the USA and Britain.

After all that, I'm ready to flop, like this Welwitschia.



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